I know this is asked a million times, but I just want to double-check. I think I am ok in terms of capacity. Can someone confirm..... or correct me if needed
F150 - 2018 Lariet SCREW 3.55 2.7 Eco 145 WB. I am adding the OEM TBC
Will be traveling with a total of 5 passengers in the truck - say 8-900LBS
Will be traveling light until we get to the campsite - will get water, food, wood once we park Camper......so just traveling with maybe another 1000 LBS of supplies I guess. (Table, 5 chairs, camping supplies, etc)
From Ford 2018 trailer guide - the GCWR for this truck is 12900
Max towing capacity is 7600
Will have WDH
Planning on going to smoky mountains - so there will be hills
Found this rubber gasket under my 2013 F150. Part number is K505 and the letters on it say 7L1P-7B591-AB. Trying to figure out where it goes so I can put it back?
I posted several weeks ago that I am having my two month old cap repainted as the paint quality is not good, the color coat is not adhering well to the primer and chips very easily. I mentioned I did not contact Leer, as I figured they would not help me as chips occurred when the dealer removed a side window to seal it, as it was leaking.
I did use their contact form on their web site requesting two Leer side emblems and offered to pay for them, as the originals were removed for the painting.
Never received the courtesy of a reply, from three contacts over the period of a week. The web site does not list their phone number, nor email, so using the form is the only way to contact them.
I wanted to make others aware of Leers customer service, so if you do have an issue, they most likely will not help.
I also want others to be aware of their paint quality. The body shop is sanding all the paint off to the primer as he was also concerned about the color not adhering firmly to the primer.
Looking for a diagram that illustrates the vacuum elbows found on the top end of the 96 F150, 4.9L. I attached a picture of the parst in question. As you can see the three parts are well are well past the point of being useable. Anyone have any part numbers of these specific parts? I would appreciate it.
Everything I have found so far is not for the 4.9L
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any one have a dual 10 box in a supercab amazon has a dual 12 box but no dual 10 box if someone does have this box or even the dual 12 box could u send me the outside deminsions for it i have searched and i keep finding boxes for 04 to 08 and 15 up and thanks in advance
I was curious as to what numbers my truck would run with the Omega tune by Oz Tuning. My only other mod, besides the tune is a JLT. I am running E85 In the tank, the tuner said he saw 75% ethanol. Powertrain dynamics uses a dynojet, SAE corrected and smoothed to a 4. I made two back to back pulls, no need for a third, as was my original plan. Made a best of 347rwhp/365rwtq SAE corrected.
have a 2014 ecoboost engine light came on and And several codes came up. PO151, 299, 345, 349,131. when engine warms up it has no power at take off and no boost . when engine is cold its fine. I have allready repaced the O2 sensor(bank2 sensor 1,and Bank1 sensor 1 )and no change. any ideas should i replace the Camshaft position sensor too?.
PO151 - O2 circuit low voltage (bank2 sensor 1) PO131 02 circuit low voltage (bank 1 sensor 1) PO299 turbo/super charger (underboost) PO345 camshaft position sensorA (bank2) PO349 camshaft position sensir A intermittent (bank 2)
Just picked this up a few weeks ago. Been looking for this combo for a bit. Had a Linex liner sprayed in it. Have a grocery list of mods coming in the next few months.
I bought the headlights about 3 years ago. They have treated me well except for the morimoto HID kit, for some reason the igniter XB part kept going bad so I removed it all from the truck and havent put them back in for a while. I will include the whole morimoto kit with the head lights but you will need a new igniter XB ($20).
I have 2003 F150 5.4 club cab 4+4 for good 10 years and pull a 26' fifth wheel camper dry it runs 6000 loaded a little over 7000 this weekend will be the last time I pull the camper with the 2003 I'm buying some thing newer here what I'm looking at 2016 F150 3.5 Eco club cab max tow 4+4,2016 F150 5.0 club cab with tow package 4+4 and a 2018 Chevy Silverado 5.3 double cab tow package 4+4. What would be the best to pull my camper and why do you think it would be the best? Thanks for any and all info!!!
The F150 cloth seats (for 2015+) are a synthetic fabric made from recycled plastic bottles. Does anyone know if the entire seating area is made from this fabric, or just the middle portion? Also, the fabric material (trade name: Repreve) is advertised to be water and stain resistant.... I'm wondering if an upholstery protectant, such as Scotchgard, is needed or recommended.
**** 2020 XLT, Stone Gray Metallic, 5.0L V8, 302A Group ****
How much transmission fluid would be lost if the cooler lines were replaced ?
is it a minimal or substantial amount ?
I want to upgrade both of my transmission coolers to "heavy duty".
Factory ones are old, and small.
Hello forum, I have a 89 F150 that runs but will not drive. When I start it the engine goes threw the normal motions, high idle until warm and then stable at around 800 rpm. Its all fine, until I place it in drive. Then the rpms drop and the engine spits and stutters and then dies. It restarts back up fine.
I yanked out a code 11 and I do not understand what in the world is going on. There is obviously something wrong. So breaking out my Haynes I began testing everything.
I checked its fuel pressure and its 37psi all day long. I removed the vacuum hose and there is no fuel in the fpr. I checked for vacuum leaks with my stethoscope, and checked the vacuum hoses because the hard plastic likes to have hairline cracks that are hard to find, but have not detected any. I tested my iac, tps, map, evp and they passed the Haynes tests.
Googling what else could cause this has not brought up anything I have not tested. :wacko:
Currently I have a lead foot grey 2018 F150 STX. I want to replace the door panels (I like the All black ones With chrome outline better) has anyone done this?
It was time to join this forum since I've had my 05 F150 for a year now. Hoping I can pick some brains about some wiring questions. Yes, I have searched and the best I can see, my situation is a bit unique.
ok...
2005 F150. 5.4, automatic 4x4
bought truck used last summer. A/C DID work, but was unable to test 4x4 system. (my bad) After discovering 4x4 wasn't engaging (nor were any of the 4x4 dash indicators working), I started to troubleshoot the system and saw the transfer case motor was unplugged. I plugged the motor in and "bam", there goes fuze 11 and my air conditioning. Saw in the diagrams that fuze 11 is indeed the 4x4 solenoid and a/c clutch. Here's the kicker. The 4x4 system works. The transfer case motor engages in 4x4, but the hubs were hit or miss. 4x4 definitely works though and has been tested....still no dash indicator lights.....
Replaced relays to eliminate them, replaced fuse 11 and as soon as I turn on climate control, the fuse pops. The a/c compressor clutch gives me no visual evidence that it's spinning and I obviously have no a/c.
So....do I have an a/c compressor shot? I just replaced the 4x4 solenoid and for the first time, I saw dash indicator lights and did a little happy dance. Then I turned the a/c on and fuse pops again. I sometimes get a momentary dash indicator flash when I switch to 4h and I clearly hear the hubs engage and disengage. They did NOT do that before. I used to have to do the ford forward/reverse dance to get the transfer case out of 4x4 and I suspect the front hubs remained engaged constantly.
so that means although I have no dash indicator lights, the 4x4 system IS functional, but no indicator lights and no A/C.
Wouldn't the 4x4 system not engage if fuse 11 is blown? Why is the electronic 4x4 system working if fuse 11 keeps blowing?
I hate electrical. I was hoping to do some troubleshooting before taking it into the shop.
been going back and forth on trying to decide which camper shell to get. And I think I've narrowed it down to the qx100 and qx100 sport. Been trying to get the local dealer to get me a price on one for over a month and I guess he doesn't want to make any money.
Has anybody gotten one of these 2 if so what options are a must have for you? And what kind of prices were you quoted?
another dealer about an hour away was
$2600 for the qx100 and $2750 for the sport starting price.
Then 100 to install and 100 for tricolor paint.
the roof rack system was $450
So comes out to around $3700 after tax and install which seems high to me. But hard to know for sure.
Looking st upgrading our small trailer to this 5th wheel. Thinking I need to go with a 350 diesel but was wondering if the 250 diesel will do it https://www.dutchmen.com/product/Astoria
I have a 2013 XLT. I enabled remote start with Forscan and a few other mods. The range of the remote start sucks but works, or should I say worked. Long story short. Got out of my truck after a short drive and the audio from Sirius and Bluetooth worked fine. Got back in the truck and noticed no audio from any source. Turned off truck and cranked it again, nothing. Searched google and saw someone with same issue, his solution was after he locked the truck and started the truck with remote start, audio was back. So I gave it a try, but remote start isn't working either. I can lock the truck with the fob and then hit the remote start button twice and it sounds like the doors lock again, the turn signal on the side mirrors blink twice and then after about 5 seconds the horn honks. Engine never starts. I have tried to search this issue but haven't found anything yet. Thanks for any help y'all can provide.
I have a 2013 XLT. I enabled remote start with Forscan and a few other mods. The range of the remote start sucks but works, or should I say worked. Long story short. Got out of my truck after a short drive and the audio from Sirius and Bluetooth worked fine. Got back in the truck and noticed no audio from any source. Turned off truck and cranked it again, nothing. Searched google and saw someone with same issue, his solution was after he locked the truck and started the truck with remote start, audio was back. So I gave it a try, but remote start isn't working either. I can lock the truck with the fob and then hit the remote start button twice and it sounds like the doors lock again, the turn signal on the side mirrors blink twice and then after about 5 seconds the horn honks. Engine never starts. I am new to the forum and have tried to search this issue but have't found anything yet. Thanks for any help y'all can provide.
